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(1964-1973) Classic Mustang Tech

Technical discussions for Classic Mustang performance and appearance from the 1964-1973 Mustangs (429cid, 428cid, 390cid, 351cid, 302cid, 289cid, 260cid, 250cid, 200cid, and 170cid)



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  #1  
Old 08-18-2010, 03:51 PM
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so...

Im FINALLY working on the car (been helping my dad build a workshop all summer).

i got the new ignition switch in, new coil, new solenoid, and its cranking and i'm getting spark

but im completely puzzled why im not getting ignition, i have fuel, spark, and its cranking cleanly. if anyone has an idea why, i NEED to know.
but on a nicer note, i finally got a job to pay for the car parts so i can stop mooching off my parents (for now).
and as of 3 weeks from now, i'll have had the car for one year.
soon enough, i'll be able to take her out for a spin.
-jm5


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  #2  
Old 08-18-2010, 04:10 PM
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That's great news... Maybe you should check the timing?

Does it sound like it wants to fire? the car has a straight 6 in it from what I recall.. Dig up some timing procedures on Google and go from that


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  #3  
Old 08-19-2010, 01:49 PM
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it sounds like it wants to fire, theres gas on the plugs when i pull em out and it seemed like it was firing, but it wasn't starting. i think the fuel mixture is too rich, but i can't ajust it (broken screw on carb) so until i get it professionally done im SOL.


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Old 10-11-2010, 01:27 PM
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late to posting...

Have you checked the starter solenoid mounted on the inner fenderwell - I believe it's on the passenger side? Be sure all of the wires are secured properly (correct wires are on correct posts) and also be sure there are no lose or broken wires.

It's a points ignition as well - have you checked the points and/or points gap? Check for any corrosion between the points as well (very common on that type of ignition system). If there is corrosion on the point contacts, use a very small file and file off the surface corrosion on both points, which will renew the contact areas. I'd also inspect the cap & rotor for any corrosion at the contacts and also check the cap for any minute or hairline cracks. Spark plug wires deteriorate from the inside out - so they can look excellent on the outside, but the insides could be bad, which will cause poor or no spark conditions at the plugs. You can ohm spec them w/ a multimeter by pulling them off the car and seeing what the resistance is on each. I forget the exact specs (been a while), but I'm certain you can find out online what the resistance specs should be for good wires.

ignition coil - how old is it? Are the contacts clean? are the wires going to it ok? Have you tested it to see if it's still any good?

There's really not much more to it - as those cars had very minimal wiring and/or technology for their time - fuel & spark will be your main areas of concern. If fuel is getting to the carb & engine, then you have to sort out the spark.

One last thing, check for any blown fuses, cracked wires, etc. The wiring looms on those cars deteriorated over time due to age, heat, and the pure fact that the outer casings were not made with technologically designed ever lasting materials like some wiring looms today. Environmental fallout also causes cracks in the casings, actual wire degradation via corrosion that gets into any of those cracks, etc etc.

Make sure you have good ground as well - any loose ground can cause starting issues.


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Last edited by Cobra Jet; 10-11-2010 at 01:29 PM.
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