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(1979-1993) Fox-Body Mustang Tech

Technical discussions for Fox-Body Mustang performance and appearance for the 1979-1993 Ford Mustangs (5.0L, 4.2L, 3.8L, 3.3L, 2.8L, and 2.3L)



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  #1  
Old 04-22-2010, 04:45 PM
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Angry Noid Light Question

Im having problems with my fox. the car doesnt want to start and i thought it could be the distributor but i put the distributor back properly. tdc compression with rotor facing plug 1. i just recently purchased a noid light to check the voltage on the injector harness. its very dim when i try and crank it. i dont hear any clicking sound neither. i checked the positive wire on the injector and it gives me 12 volts. the other ground wire gives me a very low reading. anyone has an idea what can be wrong? im going crazy here and makes me wanna . this all started the day after my car overheated. the car does have spark and the fuel pressure is ok. my injectors arent firing cause i dont see nor smell gas on the new plugs.


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  #2  
Old 04-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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you will always have power to your injectors. the way they fire off is the computer completes the circuit by grounding out the injector. plug the noid light to the injector and crank the car, does the light flash?


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  #3  
Old 04-22-2010, 08:51 PM
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also have you tried pulling codes?


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Old 04-22-2010, 09:55 PM
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i did plug the noid light and its very, very dim that i dont see it pulsing. i dont have a ford scanner, i just ordered ordered 1 today. if i cant get it going, my last option is taking it to this guy i know who works on mustangs in perth amboy.


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E303 Cam, Trick Flow Track Heat Upper and Lower Intake, GT40 Alum Heads With Motorsports 1.60 Rocker Arms, Msd 6A with Msd Coil, FRPP 30# Injectors, Pro-M 75 MM Bullet TB, 255lb Fuel Pump, Kirban Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator, Hedman Headers, Summit H-Pipe, Flowmasters American Thunder Aod Tranny Art Carr Shift Kit, TCI Streetfighter 3000 stall converter, heavy duty hardened shaft, B&M Hammer Shifter. Work Performed By Crazy Horse Racing
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  #5  
Old 04-22-2010, 11:56 PM
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Default No Start

Is the noid light on very dim just with the key on, or is it just on very dim when you are cranking? Also check the 2 ten pin connectors at the back of the intake (the big white and black one) sometimes they get corrosion in the terminals and don't make a good connection. Those are the main electrical connection for the injector harness to the pcm.
If you have spark, but no injector pulse, then basically you have 3 possibilities: wiring, Distributor, or PCM. Most common is wiring or the TFI module and pickup coil in the distibutor.


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Old 04-23-2010, 07:47 AM
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My money is the module on the dist. is blown. we used to change them all the time back in the day.it got real hot when you over heated it. maybe coolant is on connector?


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Old 04-23-2010, 11:06 AM
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just like i said in the last thread you may need to have to tfi tested to see if its good.


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Old 04-23-2010, 09:30 PM
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the module is brand new and it has spark. the noid light is very dim when im cranking it. im gonna check the injector harness with the salt and pepper connections. im thinking im not getting good ground either from the firewall or from the eec. i dont have a extra eec to swap it out.


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  #9  
Old 04-24-2010, 02:45 PM
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ok all my grounds seems good. i checked the salt and pepper connections and that seems to be ok. when i put on the voltameter to the injector harness and i get numbers jumping back and forth 0.36 to 0.44 volts while cranking. any ideas?


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E303 Cam, Trick Flow Track Heat Upper and Lower Intake, GT40 Alum Heads With Motorsports 1.60 Rocker Arms, Msd 6A with Msd Coil, FRPP 30# Injectors, Pro-M 75 MM Bullet TB, 255lb Fuel Pump, Kirban Adj Fuel Pressure Regulator, Hedman Headers, Summit H-Pipe, Flowmasters American Thunder Aod Tranny Art Carr Shift Kit, TCI Streetfighter 3000 stall converter, heavy duty hardened shaft, B&M Hammer Shifter. Work Performed By Crazy Horse Racing
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