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(2005-2009) S197 Mustang V6 & V8 GT Tech

Technical discussions for S197 Mustang V6 & V8 GT performance and appearance for the 2005-2009 Ford Mustangs (4.6L and 4.0L)

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  #11  
Old 01-26-2010, 01:59 PM
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Coast makes a nice one.

They use a 4" diameter shaft. And here's a little info that might help you as well. It's regarding Coasts driveshaft but you'll see that it relates to others as well:

* SPECIAL NOTICE *

It has come to our attention that our competitors have expressed concern for clearance issues on our 4-inch aluminum driveshaft. They claim that their 3-1/2-inch diameter driveshaft is a better product because our 4-inch aluminum driveshaft has clearance issues. These claims are in-fact unjustified. We have sold hundreds of these driveshafts without a single problem. The only situation where clearance would possibly be an issue is when an aftermarket shifter has been installed.

With all things considered, our 4-inch driveshaft is actually a much safer design than the competitors' 3-1/2-inch driveshshaft. The key factor is the called "Critical Speed". Critical speed is the single most important aspect of driveshaft selection. Critical speed is simply the maximium speed that a driveshaft can spin at safely. Depending on the length, material and diameter of the shaft the critical speed can vary widely. The criical speed of the competitiors' 3-1/2-inch shaft is 6,963RPMs, while our 4-inch shaft increases the safe operating range by over 1000RPMs to a critical speed of 7992RPM. This increased safety margin is well worth the 1/4-inch reduction in clearance.

Still skeptical? Here's what the "Pro's" have to say:

"Because we were concerned with the rotating masses in the S197 we knew there was a very heavy two piece driveshaft. By working with this company we have been able to shed twenty-two pounds off the rotating mass in the driveline. We use their product in all our S197 Mustang’s; now Coast driveline has brought their product to the market with great success. This to me is a good example of how a relationship should work. Their products were tested hard, modified and retested in our road course work. Changes were then made and the end product is better for everyone, including the BDX production cars."

—Allan Crocket
Barber Driving Experience



If you replace your driveshaft as well, for the love of pete get a driveshaft saftey loop regardless.

Also here is a little plug for the driveshafts we have available over at BMC:

DriveShaft Options



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  #12  
Old 01-26-2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey07 View Post
The upside to the Carbon Fiber shafts is that under failure it splinters to pieces instead of becoming a "weapon of mass destruction" under your car like an aluminum one would... I've heard the CF ones can hold more power but I don't know about that... I've also head if you do a one piece there may be clearance issues if you decide to lower the car
thats why lowered cars get the 3.5" one instead of the 4" one


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  #13  
Old 01-26-2010, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyStang07-Brian View Post
yeah ive read that the v6 driveshaft is only rated to run safely up to 115mph for a small amount of time at that speed before the vibrations become too extreme and cause it to fail/explode/take out your legs
hmm interesting i guess i have to drive longer at 115 lol i think i did it once for probally mile at that speed since its limited and no vibrations at all it was very smooth. Ask my friend whos on the forum as full boost he was in the car when i did it and have had no problems as of now maybe i just didnt drive long enough lol


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  #14  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:27 PM
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IMO carbon fiber helps you hook because it absorbs some of the energy (like the side wall of a slick) which won't shock your tire as much.

Here's another place you may want to consider.

http://www.leonardracing.com/drive01.php


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  #15  
Old 01-27-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyStang07-Brian View Post
yeah ive read that the v6 driveshaft is only rated to run safely up to 115mph for a small amount of time at that speed before the vibrations become too extreme and cause it to fail/explode/take out your legs
Where did you find a hill long and steep enough to get that v6 up to 115mph? ....Just kidding :P
These guys are supposed to be really good, they are in Jersey too http://www.axle-exchange.com/


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  #16  
Old 01-27-2010, 12:56 PM
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ive heard about the absorbtion of shock of cf too.

and the thing about a 3.5 being better than a 4" being unjustified is utterly ignorant. as we all know, 4" will often rub on a lowered car. It has nothing to do with the shifter.

They have ones that are even 4" then butted to 3.5 for that exact reason. Another place to look at is [url]www.spydershaft.com[.url] if theyre still around.


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  #17  
Old 01-27-2010, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 mach 1 View Post
Seriously? What is the small amount of time, 15 seconds, an hour? That also brings the question of what about redlining say first gear with the RPM's spinning at that speed would it be close to the same at 115 mph?
actually it wouldnt. your transmission input shaft would be spinning at say 6500 rpms, but your out put shaft wouldnt. your driveshaft spins in conjunction with the wheel speed, not the engine speed


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  #18  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishpwr46 View Post
actually it wouldnt. your transmission input shaft would be spinning at say 6500 rpms, but your out put shaft wouldnt. your driveshaft spins in conjunction with the wheel speed, not the engine speed
so it depends on which gear you are in aka what MPH you are going.

50 MPH in 3rd or 5th will still result in the same rotations in the driveshaft. Cause 50 MPH requires "X" amount of revolutions of the wheels/driveshaft.


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  #19  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:09 PM
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I have the Shaftmaster 3.5 inch one on my 2008 SHELBY GT/SC Automatic 6000 miles on it to date no problems. (500 RWHP)

PJ


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